If you’re unfamiliar with the term, “peel season” is skincare industry lingo for the time of year when dermatologists and estheticians recommend chemical peels.
During this period, typically September through early spring, reduced sun exposure, decreased skin sensitivity, and optimal conditions for regeneration make it the ideal time for enhanced exfoliation.
Now that peel season is in full swing, we’re here to share the essential information you need about chemical peels.
What Is A Chemical Peel?
A chemical peel is a popular, non-surgical cosmetic procedure used to resurface and rejuvenate the skin. Chemical peels are highly versatile therapeutic and cosmetic tools. They are commonly used to address a wide range of skin concerns, including acne, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, sun damage, fine lines, wrinkles, and rough or dull skin.
During treatment, a specialized chemical solution is applied to the skin (usually the face, neck, or hands), which causes the damaged outer layers of skin to exfoliate and eventually peel away. This process creates a controlled wound, triggering the body’s natural healing response and stimulating collagen production. As a result, the newly regenerated skin underneath is typically smoother, brighter, and more even-toned.
The Three Types of Chemical Peels
Peels are classified by how deeply the acid solution penetrates the layers of the skin. The type of chemical peel you choose should be guided by your skincare goals and the expert advice of an esthetician, dermatologist, or surgeon:
Light Chemical Peel: Light or mild chemical peels are usually simple enough to be performed by a licensed esthetician at your local spa. This type of peel is ideal for anyone looking to refresh their skin without major commitments or downtime. Light chemical peels affect the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis) only, and typically use glycolic, lactic, or salicylic acid. These peels are effective in addressing fine lines, active breakouts, mild discoloration, and dryness. Side effects usually include temporary redness, flaking, or dryness.
Medium Chemical Peel: Medium chemical peels treat deeper levels of the skin, particularly the epidermis and the upper part of the middle layer (dermis). Commonly used ingredients include trichloroacetic acid (TCA) or a higher-strength glycolic acid. Medium chemical peels target deeper wrinkles, acne scars, uneven skin tone, and age spots. Downtime and recovery for a medium chemical peel typically lasts 5 to 7 days.
Deep Chemical Peels: Deep chemical peels are not for the faint of heart and should only be considered by those who are seeking serious, transformative results. Deep chemical peels penetrate deeply into the middle layer of the skin (dermis) and use phenol (carbolic acid) to treat deep wrinkles, severe sun damage, and precancerous growths. Deep phenol peels require sedation and can present risks to individuals with underlying heart conditions. Patients can expect 2 to 3 weeks of recovery time and skin redness that can last for months.
Risks and Complications
Chemical peels carry various risks, ranging from temporary redness and flaking to severe, permanent complications like scarring, infection, and changes in skin pigmentation. The severity of these risks increases with the depth of the peel and improper application. Complications and common side effects can include:
Redness and Irritation: Treated skin typically looks and feels like a severe sunburn; redness may last for a few days after a light peel or several months following a medium-to-deep peel.
Scaling and Crusting: The outer layers of skin dry up, flake off, or form crusts as new skin regenerates underneath.
Swelling and Discomfort: Mild-to-moderate swelling can occur, especially around the eyes, accompanied by stinging, burning, or throbbing.
Sun Sensitivity: Newly exposed skin temporarily loses its natural barrier and is highly sensitive to ultraviolet radiation, raising the risk of new sun damage.
Hyperpigmentation or Hypopigmentation: Skin can become permanently or temporarily darker or lighter than surrounding areas. Hyperpigmentation is more frequent with light, superficial peels, whereas hypopigmentation is tied to deep peels. Both can occur more often in individuals with darker skin tones.
Scarring: Aggressive peels or picking at scabs during the healing process can lead to permanent scarring, most frequently on the lower face.
Infections: Chemical peels can trigger bacterial, fungal, or viral infections, notably a painful flare-up or spread of the herpes simplex virus (cold sores).
Systemic Toxicity (Deep Phenol Peels): Deep peels using carbolic acid (phenol) can stress or damage the heart muscle, causing irregular heartbeats (arrhythmias), alongside potential kidney or liver injury.
Before undergoing a chemical peel, it’s crucial to consult a skincare professional. They’ll assess your skin’s condition, determine the most appropriate type of chemical peel for you, and guide you through the process. Remember, chemical peels aren’t a one-size-fits-all solution, and seeking professional advice ensures a safer and more effective experience. Medium and deep peels must always be performed by a certified medical professional, such as a dermatologist or plastic surgeon.
Why Fall and Winter Are Ideal for Peels
As previously mentioned, there are several reasons why the cooler months are ideal for chemical peels. These include:
Lower UV Exposure: Chemical peels remove the outermost layers of the skin, leaving your new complexion extremely sensitive to sunlight. To minimize sun exposure and ensure a smoother recovery, it’s advisable to schedule a chemical peel during the fall or winter months. Shorter, cooler days result in reduced UV radiation intensity, lowering the risk of post-peel sunburn or hyperpigmentation.
Reversing Summer Damage: Months of outdoor activities, coupled with heat, sweat, and sunscreen buildup, can leave the skin congested, textured, or unevenly pigmented. Peels serve as a seasonal reset, effectively clearing away this accumulated debris.
Easier Recovery: Cooler weather and more time indoors reduce sweating and heat, allowing the skin to heal comfortably without environmental stressors. Furthermore, cold weather naturally reduces skin sensitivity, making fall and winter ideal for chemical peels.
Final Thoughts
Chemical peels can be an excellent way to rejuvenate your skin, but the extent of the treatment depends on your comfort level. Peels are highly effective in addressing acne, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and uneven skin texture. If you’re considering your first chemical peel, it’s advisable to begin with a light peel. Always adhere to the before and after care instructions provided by your esthetician, dermatologist, or surgeon. While at-home chemical peel kits have gained popularity and become widely accessible, it’s strongly advised to avoid performing this type of skin treatment without professional supervision.
Since chemical peels temporarily weaken the skin barrier, strict safety precautions are essential. Newly exposed skin is highly susceptible to UV damage, so it’s crucial to apply broad-spectrum sunscreen daily after a peel to prevent hyperpigmentation. Avoid picking, pulling, or scratching at peeling skin, as this can lead to permanent scarring. Simplify your skincare routine and stick to a gentle cleanser and a deeply hydrating moisturizer. Additionally, avoid using strong actives like retinol, vitamin C, or physical scrubs for as long as recommended by your practitioner.