Glossary of Skincare Terms and Ingredients:

Welcome to the glossary! This ever-growing list of skincare terms, techniques, and ingredients is designed to give you the knowledge you need to make healthier, better informed decisions about your skincare. Should you have questions regarding the safety or efficacy of any of the ingredients listed, be sure to visit the links listed at the bottom of the page. Want to see an ingredient added to the list? Let me know!

Acne - A common skin condition that occurs when hair follicles become congested with oil and dead skin cells.

AHAs - Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a type of non-abrasive, chemical exfoliant. Derived from sugarcane or other plant sources, alpha-hydroxy acids exfoliate the skin, loosening dead skin cells and stimulating collagen production. Common AHAs include lactic, glycolic, and mandelic acids.

Aloe Vera/Aloe Barbadensis - Derived from the gel-like juice of the aloe plant, aloe vera is a common ingredient in many skincare products. Known for its soothing properties, aloe vera boasts many benefits, including moisturizing, nourishing, and healing the skin.

Antioxidant - Any synthetic or naturally occurring substance that inhibits oxidation, preventing or delaying cell damage. Antioxidants are found in many foods, including fruits and vegetables, and are often included in skincare products. Common antioxidants are Vitamins A, C, and E.

Argan Oil - Native to Morocco and Algeria, argan oil is a common ingredient in skin and hair care. Rich in fatty acids and Vitamin E, argan oil is thought to have powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Azelaic Acid - A naturally occurring acid found in grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. Its natural antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties make it an effective treatment for common skin conditions like acne and rosacea. Azelaic acid can also be used to treat discoloration and hyperpigmentation.

Bakuchiol - A plant-based alternative to retinol. Used in traditional Chinese and Indian medicine, bakuchiol is an antioxidant that produces similar results to retinol without irritation.

BHAs - Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) are mild chemical exfoliants that easily penetrate the skin to unclog pores and clear breakouts. BHAs work well on sensitive skin and help calm redness and other minor irritations. The most common BHA is salicylic acid.

Bentonite - A natural clay with a fine, soft texture. When used in skincare, bentonite clay can absorb excess oil, draw out impurities, and minimize the appearance of pores. Bentonite clay is suitable for oily and acne-prone skin types but may be too harsh for those with dry or sensitive skin.

Benzoyl Peroxide - A topical antiseptic for treating acne and other skin conditions.

Biotin - Also known as Vitamin B7, biotin supports skin, hair, and eye health. Although it can be taken as a supplement, biotin can be found in foods like egg yolk, nuts, bananas, cauliflower, and mushrooms.

Caffeine - A naturally occurring alkaloid compound derived from the leaves and fruits of various plants, including coffee and cocoa trees. When used in skincare, caffeine can reduce puffiness, firm, tone, and energize the skin.

CBD - Derived from cannabis, cannabidiol oil is a popular natural remedy used to reduce pain and stress. CBD can reduce inflammation, regulate oil production, fight free radical damage, and hydrate dry skin.

Ceramides - Natural fats (lipids) that are found in skin cells. Ceramides make up 30% to 40% of your outer skin layer. When added to skincare products, ceramides moisturize the skin and help protect the skin’s natural barrier.

Charcoal - Like clay, charcoal can help remove impurities and dirt from the skin, improving its texture and appearance. Typically, skincare manufacturers produce charcoal by heating pulverized substances such as wood, peat, bamboo, and coconut shells.

Chlorophyll - The substance that gives plants their green color. When used topically, chlorophyll has been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties, which may aid in the reduction of skin redness and irritation. As an antioxidant, chlorophyll may help shield the skin from environmental damage.

Cica - Also known as Centella Asiatica, cica is a plant native to the wetlands of Asia. Purported to have numerous skin benefits, cica is especially effective in improving the look of damaged skin, reducing inflammation, and soothing irritation.

Collagen - A protein found in connective tissue, skin, tendon, bone, and cartilage. Collagen provides structural support to the skin and helps the skin maintain elasticity, volume, and moisture.

Colloidal Oatmeal - A finely ground oat powder that's used to soothe and soften skin. Colloidal Oatmeal is considered an emollient because it packs fats, proteins, vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients shown to benefit the skin.

Copper - A trace mineral found in all body tissues. Copper plays a key role in the body’s ability to produce collagen.

Dermaplaning - A minimally invasive treatment that uses a scalpel or razor to remove the uppermost layers of the skin. This procedure also temporarily removes unwanted facial hair and can help reduce the appearance of acne scarring.

Dimethicone - A silicone-based ingredient that helps protect and condition the skin improving its softness and flexibility.

Elastin - A natural protein produced by the human body. Elastin provides strength and elasticity to skin, tissue, and organs.

Emollient - A softening ingredient used in creams, lotions, and ointments. Emollients cover the skin with a protective film to trap moisture and can help relieve dryness, itching, and scaling.

Enzymes - A natural alternative to traditional exfoliants, enzymes create a chemical reaction on the skin to dissolve dry, hardened skin cells and encourage the growth of new, healthy cells. Fruits such as pineapple and papaya are often used in skincare for the natural enzymes they contain.

Essence - Similar to toner, an essence is a lightweight, watery liquid that provides an extra layer of hydration to the skin. Essences are typically used to prep the skin for the rest of your routine. The primary difference between essence and toner is that toner helps to cleanse the skin, while essence helps to nourish and hydrate it.

Exfoliant - Any chemical or physical agent that loosens and helps remove dead cells on the skin's outer layer, revealing fresher, newer skin underneath.

Ferulic Acid - An antioxidant found in plant cells, typically grains and vegetables. Skincare products containing ferulic acid are designed to reduce inflammation, even skin tone, and reduce signs of aging.

Glycerin - Glycerin is a humectant, a moisturizing agent that pulls water from the air into the outer layer of the skin. Glycerin hydrates and strengthens the skin’s barrier and protects against irritants.

Glycolic Acid - An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane. Glycolic acid can combat acne, fade discoloration, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

Green Tea - Rich in antioxidants and nutrients, green tea is considered to be exceptionally beneficial for the skin. Green tea has anti-inflammatory properties, can combat acne-causing bacteria, and is rich in Vitamins E and B2, which help support collagen levels and new cell growth.

Gua Sha - A traditional Chinese medicine technique that involves scraping a smooth-edged stone across lubricated skin. This practice may improve circulation, reduce inflammation, promote lymphatic drainage, and relieve pain.

Humectant - A common moisturizing agent used in lotions, shampoos, and other beauty products. Humectants help skin and hair retain moisture by drawing water from the surrounding air.

Hyaluronic Acid - Hyaluronic acid (HA) helps the skin retain moisture. With the ability to hold one thousand times its weight in water, hyaluronic acid heals, moisturizes, and boosts skin elasticity.

Hyperpigmentation - A common, usually harmless condition in which patches of skin are darker than the surrounding skin. Hyperpigmentation may appear as freckles, age spots, or larger areas of darkened skin. Sun exposure, hormonal changes, age, and skin injuries or inflammation can all be causes of hyperpigmentation.

Inflammation - A general term to describe skin irritation or swelling. Inflammation in the skin can range from mild redness and itching to severe rashes, blisters, and pain. Common forms of inflammation are acne, eczema, rosacea, and psoriasis.

Jojoba - A natural oil or extract derived from a shrub native to the southwestern United States. An excellent multi-tasker, jojoba can moisturize and protect the skin, fight bacteria, reduce irritation, and help heal wounds.

Kaolin - Like bentonite, kaolin clay absorbs excess oil and can help remove impurities from the skin. Kaolin is suitable for all skin types (including sensitive) and can help exfoliate and brighten the skin.

Kojic Acid - Derived from several types of fungi, kojic acid is most commonly used as a skin-lightening agent. By inhibiting the production of melanin, kojic acid can help reduce visible sun damage, age spots, and scars.

Lactic Acid - An alpha-hydroxy acid derived from milk. In most skincare products, lactic acid is used to exfoliate, minimize the appearance of wrinkles, and reduce discoloration.

Lanolin - A fatty substance found naturally in sheep's wool. Its emollient, conditioning properties make it an effective ingredient in combating dry skin.

Licorice - Licorice root contains antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties. Some research suggests licorice root extract may help treat a variety of skin conditions, such as acne and eczema.

Linalool - A common ingredient in skincare, linalool is primarily used to add fragrance. Linalool can sensitize the skin and cause irritation.

Limonene - Commonly found in citrus fruits, limonene is an ingredient used to add fragrance to skincare and other products. Like linalool, it has the potential to cause skin sensitivity and irritation.

Lipids - Natural fats in the skin. Lipids act as a protective barrier that prevents the absorption of dirt and other impurities.

Mandelic Acid - An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds. As an exfoliator, mandelic acid is gentler than other AHAs and is generally well tolerated. Mandelic acid helps improve skin texture, fights hyperpigmentation, combats acne, and softens the appearance of fine lines.

Manuka Honey - Native to New Zealand, manuka honey has potent anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. It reduces moisture loss, provides antioxidant defense against cellular damage, and hydrates and softens the skin.

Matcha - High-quality green tea finely ground into powder.

Melanin - A bodily substance that produces hair, eye, and skin pigmentation. The more melanin you produce, the darker your hair, skin, and eyes may be. The amount of melanin in your body depends on genetics and how much sun exposure your ancestral population had. Melanin in the skin can help absorb harmful UV rays and protect cells from sun damage.

Microbiome - Refers to the diverse ecosystem of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms that live on human skin. The skin microbiome prevents disease, boosts barrier protection, and aids immune defenses.

Microdermabrasion - A minimally invasive resurfacing procedure used to treat uneven skin tone and texture, sun damage, and scarring. This treatment involves gently sanding away the outer layer of the skin using a special applicator with an abrasive surface.

Microneedling - A procedure that involves inserting tiny needles into the skin. Microneedling stimulates collagen production and may help reduce skin discoloration, wrinkles, scars, and hair loss.

Mineral Oil - A liquid form of petroleum jelly. When listed as an ingredient, mineral oil is sometimes called liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, white mineral oil, paraffin oil, or petroleum oil. Mineral oil is often used in skincare products for its moisturizing properties and can be used as an occlusive to help seal moisture into the skin.

Niacinamide - A type of Vitamin B3. Niacinamide is known to boost hydration, calm redness, reduce dark spots, and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Occlusive - A moisturizing ingredient that creates a barrier on top of the skin, preventing water loss. One of the most common occlusive ingredients in skincare is petrolatum, commonly known as petroleum jelly.

Parabens - Preservatives used to protect cosmetics from bacteria and fungi.

Peptides - Amino acids that make up certain proteins needed by the skin. Peptides help reduce inflammation, even out skin tone, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

Petrolatum - Derived from petroleum, petrolatum (or petroleum jelly) is an ingredient used as a moisturizing agent.

Probiotics - Live bacteria that support the healthy bacteria that live on and in the human body. Probiotics may help prevent and treat skin conditions like eczema, acne, dry skin, and UV-induced skin damage.

Radicals/Free Radicals - Unstable molecules that damage cells, causing illness and aging. Sun exposure, air pollution, and pesticides are common radicals that affect the skin. Skin can also suffer significant damage from radicals through smoking, alcohol use, and poor nutrition.

Retinol - A potent form of Vitamin A with powerful anti-aging benefits. Retinol increases cell production, neutralizes radicals, and boosts the production of collagen and elastin. While approved by the FDA, retinol can cause side effects such as redness, itching, swelling, peeling, and sensitivity to sunlight. For better sun safety, use retinol products at night and always wear sunscreen.

Reishi - The reishi mushroom is a fungus that grows in various hot and humid locations in Asia. Reishi is thought to be a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin for a plump, hydrated appearance. Its anti-inflammatory properties may soothe irritated skin, alleviating redness and promoting a calm, balanced complexion.

Rice Powder - A popular ingredient in cosmetic products throughout East Asia including China, South Korea, and Japan. Rice powder is used to absorb excess oil, exfoliate, and brighten the skin.

Rosehip - An oil or extract derived from the fruit and seeds of the rosa canina rose bush. Rosehip oil is loaded with skin-nourishing vitamins and essential fatty acids. It moisturizes, hydrates, brightens, protects, and boosts collagen production.

Salicylic Acid - A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that is known to be beneficial for oily, or acne-prone skin. It works by exfoliating the skin and keeping pores clear. Salicylic acid (SA) works best for mild acne and can help prevent future breakouts.

Sebum - A natural oily substance produced by the skin's sebaceous glands that moisturizes and protects the skin.

Shea Butter - A seed fat that comes from the shea tree. Shea trees grow in the dry savannah environments of several African countries. Shea butter works as an emollient to help soothe and soften skin and is a popular ingredient in many skin and hair care products.

Silica - A natural ingredient found in clays as well as in parts of plants and animals. Silica is used to thicken the consistency of various products and can help the skin absorb other ingredients (such as antioxidants) for maximum benefit.

Silicone - Synthetic ingredients that are used in cosmetics for their conditioning benefits. Silicones improve the consistency and feel of skincare products and benefit the skin by improving texture, locking in moisture, and helping damaged skin to heal.

Slugging - A moisturizing technique that involves slathering the face with an occlusive product as the last step in your evening skincare routine. This skincare trend gets its name from the “slug-like” sheen it leaves on your skin after applying your slugging product of choice.

Snail Mucin - The mucus that snails secrete. Snail mucin has been noted for its ability to hydrate skin and promote wound healing. In addition, it may have anti-aging properties as it is made up of compounds including peptides and antioxidants that promote collagen synthesis and elasticity.

Sulfates - Cleansing agents that bind with dirt, oil, and other impurities, making them easier to wash away. Sulfates can cause irritation for those with sensitive skin and can strip the hair and skin of natural oils.

Squalane/Squalene - The saturated form of squalene, a colorless, odorless liquid oil classified as a polyunsaturated fat. To make it suitable for skincare products, squalene is processed and converted into a more stable form known as squalane. Traditionally, squalene oil was harvested from animal sources (specifically shark liver oil). Squalene is now mainly sourced from lipid-rich plants such as olives, amaranth, and grapeseed.

Toner - Used after cleansing, toner helps remove remaining dirt, oil, or impurities from the skin. Toner also brings balance to the skin, while preparing the skin for the remainder of your routine. The primary difference between toner and essence is that toner helps to cleanse the skin, while essence helps to nourish and hydrate it.

Tranexamic Acid - Traditionally used as a medication to control bleeding, tranexamic acid (TXA) is used in skincare to help reduce discoloration and strengthen the skin barrier.

Turmeric - A traditional Indian spice, turmeric is thought to have numerous health and beauty benefits. Turmeric can help heal acne, protect against environmental damage, brighten skin tone, and stimulate collagen production.

Vitamin A - An essential nutrient that supports skin, eye, reproductive health, and immune function. Vitamin A can improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin sagging. It also helps reduce hyperpigmentation and the appearance of sun damage.

Vitamin C - Vitamin C is an antioxidant. When used topically, Vitamin C can help reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture. It can also provide sun protection when used in tandem with broad-spectrum sunscreen and can help lessen the appearance of sun damage.

Vitamin E - A nutrient that's important to vision, reproduction, and the health of the blood, brain, and skin. Vitamin E also has antioxidant properties.

Zinc Oxide - A natural mineral used in sunscreen. Zinc oxide reflects both UVA and UVB radiation, and helps protect the skin from sunburn, premature aging, and the development of skin cancer. Zinc oxide is widely accepted as a safe, non-irritating, and effective sun protectant.

For more information regarding the safety of any of the ingredients listed, visit these links:

United States:  Food and Drug Administration

United Kingdom: Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency

Europe: European Medicines Agency

Australia: Therapeutic Goods Administration