The clean beauty movement is a relatively new and evolving trend that can be both confusing and complicated. Even the precise definition of “clean beauty” is still a subject of intense debate within the community.
While the beauty industry is, in fact, regulated (more on that misconception later), the messaging surrounding clean beauty products is not. That means brands have the freedom to say what they want about their products, and there’s no governing body to verify their claims.
Humans are naturally inclined to accept negative information, making us susceptible to panic when we hear that something is “unsafe” or “toxic.” In the clean beauty industry, where unsubstantiated and fear-mongering claims about health and safety are often made casually, it’s no surprise that misinformation spreads rapidly.
Today, we delve into some of the most widespread clean beauty myths and why you should stop believing them.
Natural Ingredients Are Better Than Synthetic Ingredients: The idea that natural ingredients are superior to synthetic ones is perhaps the most pervasive myth of all. But just because something is natural doesn’t automatically mean it’s good for you. In fact, some of the most poisonous ingredients in the world — like arsenic and botulinum toxin — come from nature.
Natural ingredients are also notoriously difficult to work with when formulating products, which means their efficacy (and safety) can be inconsistent. When dealing with natural ingredients, you’re also contending with the environment. This means that chemicals in those natural ingredients can vary from month to month as the weather, seasons, and even the minerals in the soil change. Ultimately, you can’t guarantee the same results each time. When working with synthetic ingredients, however, it’s often easier to demonstrate higher levels of purity, consistency, and safety when formulating a product.
Toxic Ingredients are Poisoning You: Toxicology relies on one foundational rule: the dose makes the poison. Clean beauty brands often cite studies in which rats are fed massive doses of a chemical, often with no relevance to the trace amounts applied to human skin. This tactic may work well for marketing campaigns, but it’s not exactly honest or scientifically sound. In reality, trace amounts of cosmetic ingredients are thoroughly evaluated by global safety panels to ensure they are safe for humans.
Your Skin Absorbs 60 Percent of What You Put On It: This statistic may appear convincing, but it’s simply not accurate. To put it plainly, your skin is not a sponge, and if it were that absorbent, even your daily shower would be a struggle for survival.
One of your skin’s main functions is to act as a barrier — that is, it blocks substances from getting into the deeper layers of your body. How much of a substance gets absorbed into the skin depends on a lot of things, including an ingredient’s molecular size and the location of application (not all areas of your skin are as permeable as others). Absorption also depends on skin health, skin type, and how the substance is applied.
Given these facts, you might wonder if your skincare products are truly effective. The answer is yes. It all boils down to penetration versus absorption. Penetration refers to an ingredient entering the upper layers of the skin, which is the goal of a well-formulated cosmetic product. Active ingredients must penetrate the skin to be effective. Absorption, on the other hand, refers to an ingredient moving beyond the skin and into the bloodstream. The crucial distinction is that most skincare products are formulated to penetrate the epidermis (the outermost layer of the skin) rather than be absorbed into the bloodstream.
If You Can’t Pronounce It, Don’t Put It On Your Skin: Scientific names may seem intimidating, but they don’t inherently imply danger. For instance, you might be skeptical about a product containing “simmondsia chinensis,” but would you feel the same way about one containing “jojoba?” They’re the same thing. Consider “ascorbyl palmitate,” which is simply vitamin C. Just as you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, you shouldn’t base your assessment of a skincare ingredient’s safety (or lack thereof) solely on its name. Ultimately, the key factor is the ingredient’s safety profile, not its syllable count.
The U.S. Cosmetics Industry Isn’t Regulated: Cosmetic regulations in the United States may be less stringent compared to those in other countries, but the notion that brands are intentionally formulating harmful products is entirely false. While it is true that products in the U.S. do not undergo the same regulatory scrutiny as those in other countries, the FDA does not permit brands to indiscriminately add dangerous ingredients to their products. In reality, these facts are often misrepresented to instill fear and influence consumers into buying a specific brand’s products.
For example, you’ll often see “clean” beauty brands claim that they formulate their products according to the European Union’s (EU) list of 1,400 banned ingredients compared to the United States’ list of 11. To be fair, that comparison sounds frightening. However, you need to take into consideration that the EU’s list contains ingredients that have never (and would never) be used in cosmetics. For instance, when was the last time you spotted rocket fuel listed in the ingredients of your shampoo? Exactly.
Clean Beauty Is Gentler On Skin: Clean and gentle aren’t the same thing. Some common natural ingredients in clean formulas, like essential oils, citrus extracts, and natural fragrances, can actually cause skin irritation and allergies. Furthermore, the preservatives often used in clean products aren’t as well studied as those in conventional products (such as parabens). Alternatives to traditional preservatives can also cause skin irritation.
However, there are numerous synthetic ingredients that have been proven to be hypoallergenic and safe for sensitive skin. Even if a synthetic ingredient has the potential to cause irritation, cosmetic chemists have the ability to remove the allergenic portion of the ingredient in a lab, making it more tolerable for your skin.
Clean Beauty Is Better for the Environment: It’s important to remember that just because a product is natural or “clean” doesn’t automatically mean it’s sustainable. Many natural and clean brands are indeed making eco-friendly strides, such as employing low-waste production methods or switching to minimalist packaging.
However, sustainability is a vast and complicated topic, and unfortunately, some natural ingredients can actually contribute to climate change. This is because the very process of obtaining these ingredients (agriculture) can be inherently harmful. In fact, agriculture is one of the most environmentally disruptive activities we engage in as a society. For instance, farming disrupts biodiversity and also leads to CO2 emissions. On the other hand, producing synthetic ingredients in a laboratory can significantly reduce environmental strain.
Final Thoughts
In essence, if a clean beauty brand or retailer attempts to persuade you to purchase a product based on one of the statements mentioned above (which they likely will, given the profitability of fearmongering and greenwashing), it’s crucial to be vigilant. Opt for information derived from reputable sources, experts, and scientists — not from someone on your social media feed.