I’m not a big fan of natural ingredients. While I don’t mind the occasional plant or flower extract, the rise of the “clean beauty” movement and the misinformation surrounding it have soured my attitude significantly.
That’s not to say that I think natural ingredients are ineffective. After all, the world has been using natural ingredients for skincare for thousands of years. Still, just because something is old doesn’t necessarily mean it’s good.
What follows is my (hopefully) objective and balanced view on the risks and benefits of essential oils, one of the oldest natural skincare ingredients around.
What Are Essential Oils?
Essential oils are concentrated, aromatic extracts taken from different parts of plants, such as flowers, leaves, bark, and seeds. They capture the plant’s scent and flavor, or “essence.” These oils are usually obtained through steam distillation, cold pressing, or other extraction methods.
Essential oils have a long history, dating back to 4500 BC when the Ancient Egyptians used them for cosmetic and medicinal purposes. In skincare, essential oils are popular because of their potential benefits, including reducing inflammation, fighting bacteria, and enhancing skin hydration. Some of the most common essential oils in skincare are lavender, tea tree, rose, chamomile, geranium, and frankincense.
The Benefits
Anti-Inflammatory: Several essential oils have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help reduce pain, swelling, and redness. Lavender, chamomile, and rose essential oils can soothe and calm irritated skin.
Antibacterial: Some essential oils have antimicrobial properties, meaning they can kill bacteria, fungi, and viral pathogens. Tea tree and geranium oils can help fight acne and reduce bacteria on the skin.
Antioxidant: Essential oils have significant antioxidant properties due to active components, such as phenols, which can neutralize free radicals and reduce oxidative stress. Frankincense, sandalwood, and pomegranate essential oils can protect the skin from free radical damage.
Moisturizing: Essential oils contribute to skin hydration by supporting the skin’s natural processes, forming a protective barrier to prevent moisture loss, and providing compounds like fatty acids and vitamins that nourish and replenish skin. Jojoba, rosehip, and argan oils hydrate and nourish dry skin.
Toning: Some essential oils can provide a toning effect by increasing skin firmness, improving elasticity, enhancing circulation, and promoting an even complexion through properties like collagen stimulation, antioxidant benefits, and astringent action. In particular, geranium oil can help balance skin tone and control oil production.
Relaxing: Essential oils have aromatherapeutic benefits, meaning that their scent can produce a calming effect. Lavender, clary sage, and ylang-ylang oils are known to promote relaxation and reduce stress.
The Risks
Just because something is natural doesn’t mean it’s safe. Plants and herbal products contain many bioactive compounds that may harm your health, and essential oils are no different. Few uses for essential oils have been scientifically studied. Essential oil products are not well-regulated, and manufacturers are not always required to demonstrate the effectiveness of their offerings. This also means it can be hard to know exactly what’s in the bottle—such as the species of plant, the concentration of active ingredients, or whether there are any contaminants.
Side effects of essential oils include skin irritation, rashes, asthma attacks, headaches, allergic reactions, and photosensitivity. Some essential oils (like pennyroyal oil) can be poisonous if they are absorbed through the skin or swallowed. In addition, essential oils oxidize easily when exposed to air and light, making them more likely to cause allergic reactions.
Another factor to consider is that skin can be exceptionally adept at concealing irritation. This means that even if you don’t notice an immediate reaction, damage and irritation can still manifest beneath the skin’s surface. The cumulative effects of using essential oils can lead to issues like fine lines and dryness that may present themselves later on. Notably, the risk of irritation from essential oils increases if you’re already using multiple products that contain fragrance.
Precautions
If you’re going to use essential oils in your skincare routine, there are several precautions you need to take. It’s always wise to consult a dermatologist before adding new essential oil-based products, especially if you have sensitive skin or any skin conditions. Choose oils that match your specific skin concerns. Gentle oils are best for sensitive skin, while stronger oils should be used carefully.
Never apply undiluted essential oils directly to your skin. Always dilute essential oils with a carrier oil such as jojoba or argan oil. Avoid citrus oils (lemon, orange, bergamot, grapefruit), peppermint, and camphor, as these are known skin irritants. Additionally, cinnamon, clove, lemongrass, oregano, thyme, and wintergreen oils can cause redness, irritation, and even chemical burns, particularly for those with sensitive skin.
If you’re buying skincare products with essential oils, ensure the concentration is low (1 percent or less) to minimize the risk of irritation.
Final Thoughts
Essential oils offer some skin benefits, but experts generally recommend caution when using them in skincare routines due to potential risks. While certain studies suggest possible advantages, negative effects like irritation, allergic reactions, and sensitivity often outweigh the benefits. For common skin issues such as acne or aging, more effective and scientifically supported ingredients are available that carry a lower risk of adverse reactions.
Interactions with other skincare products can also be a concern. Essential oils may react with ingredients in other products, potentially causing irritation or reducing their effectiveness. To avoid this, introduce essential oils gradually into your routine and monitor how your skin responds. Always consult with a physician and perform a patch test before using a new essential oil. Apply a small amount of the diluted oil to a patch of skin and wait 24 hours to see if any reaction occurs. Since essential oils are highly concentrated, using too much can overwhelm the skin and cause issues like redness, burning, or peeling. Therefore, it’s crucial to dilute essential oils properly before applying them to the skin.