Say what you will about the beauty industry, it’s never dull.
Consider all the skincare fads that have come and gone over the years. Beauty history is full of jaw-dropping trends that leave many of us wondering, “What were they thinking?”
The “tuberculosis look” gained popularity among women in the Victorian era. This look’s highly sought-after characteristics—pale complexion, crimson lips, and slender waists—even led to a trend of women intentionally contracting the disease. Women in Renaissance Italy would apply poison from the belladonna plant to their eyes to achieve a sensual, “sparkly” appearance.
Modern beauty trends are no different. From the questionable to the downright absurd, skincare trends never fail to surprise us with creative solutions to perceived problems.
But of all the unusual skincare trends I’ve encountered, few have left me more baffled than the practice of rubbing beef fat (a.k.a. tallow) onto your face.
Here’s what you should know about this unusual trend:
What Is It?
Tallow is rendered animal fat, largely derived from sheep and cows. The rendering process involves slowly heating the tallow to separate the fat from any impurities. Once rendered, tallow solidifies at room temperature, creating a creamy substance that is traditionally used in soaps, candles, and some skincare. When solid, tallow has a texture similar to shortening or whipped butter, and is waxy white or slightly yellow. Because it’s rich in fatty acids (including oleic, palmitic, and stearic acid), tallow has become a popular alternative to more traditional moisturizers, especially among people with mature skin.
The Good
Tallow is extremely effective in providing intense moisture to dry skin. It absorbs easily and prevents dryness without suffocating the skin's barrier. Tallow is also very nourishing and is rich in vitamins A, D, E, and K. Because it’s high in antioxidants, tallow is purported to help defend the skin from environmental stressors and can help restore balance to the skin by calming inflammation.
The Bad
First and foremost, there is little clinical evidence to suggest that tallow is beneficial for use on skin or in skincare.
Tallow is not currently FDA-approved, and there is no definitive standard for sourcing or recommended use. This means that risks to health and safety are still unknown. Using beef tallow on skin could also result in adverse side effects like sensitivity or allergic reactions. Some research suggests that using tallow on the skin can increase sensitivity to sunlight.
Although it’s been touted on social media as a cure for acne breakouts, the facts reveal the opposite. Tallow is highly comedogenic, so it’s very likely to cause acne, especially in those with oily or acne-prone skin.
The Ugly
Because tallow is an animal-derived ingredient, it carries many of the same issues connected with the sourcing and processing of meat products. These include concerns about farming practices, the treatment and well-being of animals, and the environmental impact of meat production.
Questions surrounding the purity of tallow are also an issue. To be pure, tallow must come from animals such as cows, bison, or sheep. These animals must be strictly grass-fed for the tallow to have the skin-boosting benefits it’s supposed to provide. Since it’s difficult to know how an animal was kept or treated, questions about the purity of the tallow used for skin care remain unanswered. Even more worrisome is the risk of contamination from diseases cows are known to carry, including bovine spongiform encephalopathy (mad cow disease).
Tallow’s instability is another reason it’s seldom recommended for skin care. To produce the finished product, the ingredients go through several manufacturing procedures, including heating. Research shows that the composition of animal fats in ingredients produced from animals is unpredictable. Consequently, their color, look, and scent are inconsistent from batch to batch.
That brings us to my last point: The smell. While some may be unbothered, tallow does have a reputation for having a rather “meaty” odor. Some indie beauty companies have tried to mask the smell by adding fragrant essential oils, but this can lead to other problems like skin irritation, especially if you have more sensitive skin.
With skincare being so expensive, it’s easy to see the appeal of a simple, natural, ready-to-go product like tallow. But skincare has come a long way, and there are plenty of conventional alternatives (such as barrier balms) that can provide the same benefits without having to compromise safety or effectiveness. Plant-based ingredients like shea butter and mango butter can offer substantial relief from dryness since they contain high levels of fatty acids. So if you’ve been hunting for serious dry skin relief, my suggestion would be to aim for the nearest Sephora, or even your local drugstore, and avoid the lure of so-called greener pastures.