I have a complicated relationship with shea butter. While I would never question its ability to heal and protect dry skin, its frequent inclusion in various skincare products is problematic for me. Consequently, whenever I purchase a new facial care product, I scan the ingredients obsessively for shea butter (also called Butyrospermum parkii). If it’s included, well, that product goes right back on the shelf.
Every time I’ve used a product containing shea butter, I’ve suffered an almost immediate breakout. And while I’ve learned to be diligent about reading labels, the experiences I’ve had with shea butter have led me to a bold and inevitable conclusion: Shea butter does not belong on your face.
But before you take my advice to heart, let’s learn a little more about shea butter itself.
What Is Shea Butter?
Shea butter is a fat extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, native to West and Central Africa. It’s a popular ingredient in skincare due to its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. It’s rich in vitamins A, E, and F, as well as essential fatty acids.
Shea butter is made by harvesting the nuts and then boiling them to soften the shells. After cracking the shells, the kernels inside are boiled to release the fats, which are then skimmed, cooled, and solidified.
Shea butter has been a fundamental part of African skincare and traditional medicine for centuries, with evidence indicating its use dates back more than a thousand years. While mainly valued for its moisturizing and healing properties, shea butter also holds cultural significance in African communities, where it is regarded as a symbol of fertility, protection, and purity.
Shea Butter Benefits
The tree-nut oils in shea butter soak into the skin, creating a barrier that seals in moisture. This moisturizing effect can last several hours. Shea butter also has extensive anti-inflammatory properties. It contains compounds called triterpenes that can help calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and ease discomfort from conditions like eczema or sunburn. Shea butter is also rich in antioxidants, which help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals.
Shea Butter Side Effects
Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some may experience side effects, particularly those with allergies. Shea butter contains natural latex, which can cause allergic reactions such as redness, swelling, itching, or contact dermatitis in individuals with sensitive skin.
Some people with oily, sensitive, or acne-prone skin may find that shea butter clogs pores and worsens breakouts. Given its consistency, shea butter is likely to be comedogenic. Some websites claim that shea butter is non-comedogenic or has a “low comedogenic rating.” However, the American Academy of Dermatology supports the idea that shea butter can clog pores and cause acne. This is especially true if you have acne-prone skin. Even using products that contain a small amount of shea butter may lead to acne breakouts. You can learn more about comedogenicity ratings here.
Final Thoughts
Skin types and reactions can differ significantly from person to person. While shea butter is safe for many, some people with very sensitive or oily skin might experience clogged pores. It’s important to consider your skin type and perform a patch test before using it extensively. As a precaution, I recommend using shea butter strictly as a “body moisturizer only.” To minimize the risk of adverse effects, choose pure, unrefined shea butter to avoid additives that might clog pores. Use shea butter sparingly, and steer clear of products that could contain other comedogenic ingredients.