If there’s one thing the beauty industry loves more than a hero ingredient, it’s a villainous one. Or, rather, one that it can claim is villainous. All the better to sell you overpriced, “clean” beauty products, my dear.
Over the years, the beauty industry has consistently been at the forefront of controversy over skincare ingredients. From chemical sunscreens to sulfates, the safety of seemingly ordinary ingredients has been routinely called into question.
One of the latest ingredients to fall victim to controversy is benzoyl peroxide, a long-standing treatment for acne breakouts. Like many ingredients before it, some believe benzoyl peroxide has links to cancer.
Today, we’re delving into the root causes of the debate and uncovering the truth behind it all.
The Fuss
Like similar issues (such as vaccines and parabens), the safety of benzoyl peroxide came into question due to a single research paper which showed that benzoyl peroxide is chemically unstable when exposed to extreme heat. Under such conditions, it can degrade into a chemical called benzene, a known carcinogen (a substance that causes cancer).
This research, conducted by the independent lab Valisure in New Haven, Connecticut, suggests that acne treatments containing benzoyl peroxide can produce high levels of benzene. The lab’s report indicates that this can occur within the product’s formula or in the surrounding air, especially when the product is exposed to an environment at or above 158 degrees Fahrenheit (the temperature the researchers used to simulate a hot car) for more than 16 hours.
While the study’s results may seem alarming, the methodology used to obtain them is questionable. In essence, storing skincare products, even those containing benzoyl peroxide, in extremely high-temperature environments is not a common practice. Therefore, the study’s results are not applicable in most practical situations.
Furthermore, this research was not published in a peer-reviewed journal, which would have required other experts to evaluate the study’s methodology and the credibility of its findings. Valisure’s paper was published exclusively on the lab’s website and submitted as a “citizen petition,” a mechanism that allows individuals or groups to request that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issue, amend, or revoke a regulation. In short, the study functioned as Valisure’s equivalent of a witch hunt.
It’s also worth noting that Valisure’s then-CEO, David Light, filed a patent for a shelf-stable formulation of benzoyl peroxide. This patent was intended to generate revenue by selling an alternative product.
The Facts
So, is benzoyl peroxide safe? In short, yes. Overall, benzoyl peroxide is widely regarded as safe and highly effective for treating acne. Despite concerns, numerous population-based studies have failed to establish a link between benzoyl peroxide use and an increased risk of cancer. Furthermore, extensive independent testing conducted by the FDA on 95 benzoyl peroxide products revealed that over 90% of the products had undetectable or completely safe levels of benzene. Dermatologists and researchers emphasize that the actual clinical risk is exceptionally low. Benzene is highly volatile and poorly absorbed by the skin, meaning normal topical use does not significantly contribute to your daily environmental exposure.
Proper Storage and Alternatives
If you want to continue using benzoyl peroxide safely, the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends following these guidelines:
Keep It Cool: Store products containing benzoyl peroxide at room temperature or in the refrigerator. If you cannot refrigerate them, keep them in a cool, dark place away from heat sources.
Replace Often: Be aware of expiration dates, and discard expired products as needed. It is recommended to replace benzoyl peroxide products every three to six months.
If you prefer to avoid benzoyl peroxide altogether, there are several highly effective, over-the-counter acne alternatives available:
Salicylic Acid: Highly effective for healing blackheads and clearing deep pore congestion.
Adapalene: A topical retinoid that regulates skin cell turnover and is much gentler on sensitive skin.
Azelaic Acid: Targets acne-causing bacteria while simultaneously lightening dark spots and reducing redness.
Final Thoughts
With so many different sources of information available, it can be difficult to separate fact from fiction. Sometimes, even supposedly science-based organizations can have an agenda. While it’s crucial to be vigilant about skincare product safety, it’s equally important to be discerning about the sources of our information.